2) Choose a Coil Pitch ?

Spacing refers to the number of holes per inch or the spacing of holes. It's reflected in a ratio that includes the number of holes, a punctuation colon, and then an inch measurement. For example: 4:1. This ratio is read aloud/pronounced "four to one" and means 4 holes per 1 inch of length.

The 4:1 pitch bundled coil spine is by far the most popular, with approximately 98% of customers ordering the 4:1 pitch screw binder. 5:1 is a special pitch made primarily for print shops with specialized equipment for punching and for users who may have machines made in certain countries where 5:1 pitch is more common. Some more specialized machines will have other coil hole patterns such as 3:1, 2.5:1 or even 2.231mm. Before buying a screw binder, you'll want to check the compatibility of your screw binder, but keep in mind that most machines are 4:1.

3) If still not clear?

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1. Starting the Color Coil Binding
   • Many coil binding machines have a spine forming channel, this is a useful feature to help create the contours of the coil binding and aid in the initial insertion of the coil binding
   • Begin to spin the coil binding onto the punched document by hand. It is a good idea to spin the coil binding on at least an inch.
   • After the coil binding is started, hold the coil binding by the rubber rollers. Apply gentle pressure to the coil binding against the roller.
2. Crimping the coil binding element
   • When the coil binding is spun onto the document, the excess coil binding needs to be cut and crimped using coil binding cut and crimp pliers.
   • When using the cut/crimp pliers, always use them in your right hand with your thumb next to the red dot.
   • Make sure that the prongs on the cut/crimp pliers are in contact with the coil binding and squeeze.
   • This will cut of the excess coil binding and fold the coil binding over to keep it from uncoiling.

Trouble shooting:

• Coil binding not inserting into document
  • Make sure that the pitch of the coil binding matches the pitch of the holes.
  • Coil binding too small for document.
  • Large diameter coil bindings (such as 1 ¼” and above) are difficult to insert in the best of conditions. Try an oval hole punch.
• Coil binding not folding over when cut
  • Make sure that the coil bindings are in your right hand with the dot facing up. If not, the pliers will cut and crimp the section of coil binding that you want to cut off!
  • Make sure that both of the prongs of the cut/crimp pliers make contact with the coil binding. This can be somewhat difficult on 6mm and 7mm coil bindings due to the small diameter.

• Auto cutter/crimpers are available in single or double configurations. They can be tedious to set up, but save a lot of time for longer production runs.
• If possible, do not use coil bindings for documents over 1 ¼” thick. The document does not function the way that coil binding is intended to. The increased thickness of the coil binding and the weight of the book cause the pages not turn as freely.
• Another common configuration of a coil binding inserter is a wheel. The wheel can be faster for experienced users, but it is more difficult to learn. Smaller volume users typically have more success with the roller style of inserter.
• Coil binding is sold by the inch, so it is possible to get coil binding in 9” lengths for top spines and eliminate waste, or 18” lengths for 11 x 17 documents. Coil binding is the best method of binding when you have non-standard spine size needs.
• Coil binding is available in over 60 colors, by far the most of any binding style.